August 7, 2015

Sizzling São Paulo

Any visit to Brazil would be incomplete without spending a few days in São Paulo, or “Sampa,” as locals call it. While Rio’s beaches and beauty naturally beckon worldwide visitors, São Paulo offers gems of its own right: art galleries and world-renowned architecture, inspired cuisine, and growing business opportunities. 

So skipping this beast of a city (the world’s third largest city) is akin to visiting the United States without adding New York to your itinerary. Still, navigating this sprawling metropolis takes some planning ahead and few precautions—from getting your bearings to honing your street smarts. And keep in mind that it’s sometimes called the “Land of Drizzle” due to frequent rain.

Get your bearings.

As you can see from this helicopter view taken by Eli Coory (Solo on Moto), São Paulo is a massive expanse of skyscrapers and concrete. Where do you begin? Breaking down the city by districts is a good starting point. Here is a snapshot of some of the city’s main neighborhoods:

Avenida Paulista small JSCentral Business District

Most likely your trip involves business in the Central Business District, marked by the many national and international companies located along Avenida Paulista (pictured).  Not to be confused with historic Centro, this area is Sampa’s thriving commercial/business district. Need to refresh after a long meeting? Wind down at Trianon Park, a refuge in the heart of Paulista Avenue.

Jardins

A 10-15-minute walk to the southwest from Avenida Paulista, this area comprises several neighborhoods (Jardim Europa, Jardim Paulista, and Jardim America). It’s a great place to retreat for dinner. Consult this Jardins Guide to weigh your dining options. In the mood for shopping instead? One highlight of the neighborhood is “Oscar Freire”— the city’s most luxurious street where high-end boutiques reign supreme.

Centro

This is the historic downtown district where you’ll spot great 19th century architecture. Food lovers, take note. Here you’ll find the Mercado Municipal (pictured in header) —a robust marketplace that features fresh produce, dry goods, sweets, and spices.

Liberdade JS3Liberdade

Just north of Avenida Paulista’s eastern edge is Liberdade (pictured) (pronounced liber-dad-jay”), where the largest Japanese population outside Japan resides. Head to this appealing area for fantastic sushi—or simply to experience another country inside of São Paulo! It highlights the melting pot that makes São Paulo so appealing. Historically, large populations of Italian, Lebanese, and Eastern European immigrants, who founded the Zelina Village neighborhood in 1927, settled in this southern hemisphere metropolis.

Discover more neighborhood flair in Frommer’s neighborhood guide.

Sharpen your street smarts.

Despite being such a bustling business metropolis and thriving cultural destination, São Paulo necessitates a few ongoing street smarts. Many of these tips rely on common sense over complacency. All are worth taking note:

  • Petty crimes indeed happen. Security experts advise that many street criminals are after money and not your person. Regardless, muggings, pick-pocketing, and other forms of thievery are frightening. The number 1 tip: don’t wear anything flashy (e.g., your watch, rings, or other jewelry) or display other signs of wealth;
  • Be careful and aware when using ATM machines; and
  • Don’t stroll around on your cell phone; a distracted visitor is a target. Along those lines, don’t appear to be lost or unaware.

Get business-wise.

Heading to Sampa for business? Plan ahead with The Economist audio guide to doing business in Brazil. Business travelers should heed this advice:

  • Schedule meetings at least two weeks in advance and confirm them two days out;
  • Be prompt;
  • Use formal titles followed by the first name instead of the last name; and
  • Shake hands firmly (note: a woman should extend her hand first to men, whereas her kissing a female counterpart on the cheek is expected).
  • Expect contact such as touching arms, elbows, and backs to be normal and appropriate

Learn more about Brazilian business etiquette from USA Today.

Sample the local fare.

Now that you’ve planned ahead and reviewed some travel tips, it’s time to think about enjoying your downtime! At the top of the list should be food! Here’s what to expect—and seek:

caipirinha JSThe classic caipirinha cocktail

When in São Paulo…the national cocktail is the caipirinha (pictured), made from cachaça, a sugar cane hard liquor; sugar; and lime. A great place to taste this concoction is the Copan apartment building, designed by the famed Brazilian architect Oscar Niemeyer. Copan’s Bar da Dona Onça will serve up a nice one! Another option is the Skye Bar on top of the Unique Hotel, a must-see architectural masterpiece in the Jardim Paulista neighborhood, where you can take in the city skyline.

Mortadella sandwich

Envision a mound of Italian bologna-type sausage stacked in a mouth-watering sandwich. The most traditional, famous one can be found at Bar do Mané, located at Mercado Municipal. Goes best with chopp, a Brazilian draft beer!

Feijoada

Brazil’s so-called national dish, feijoada is a dried meat stew made of beef and pork. Beans, rice, the root-based farofa, fried collard greens (couve), and possibly a few slices of orange round out this delicious meal.

Churrasco

Two words: Brazilian barbecue. Simple in concept; varied in reality. Churrascarias (steakhouses) feature endless cuts of meat. Start with the prime cut picanha (beef) before advancing in your culinary adventure to other options. The service will continue until you flip your token to red to indicate that you’ve had all you can eat! Browse this Churrasco Etiquette guide to gain a better sense of the nuances of this essential dining experience. Be churrasco smart before you go.

pao de queijo JSOther food tips

Oysters are brought in daily from Florianopolis. Also try pirarucu, a flavorful fish from the Amazon. It’s easy to overdo it with so much appealing cuisine, but pão de queijo (pictured), a cheese bread that accompanies many meals, is worth the space in your belly. Also indulgent is pastel, deep-fried dough stuffed with your choice of filling (e.g., tomato/basil/cheese, ground beef, even palm hearts).

Stroll the galleries.

Have a little more time on your hands? Check out São Paulo’s well-regarded art galleries. Here are a few:

Museu de Arte de São Paulo

The most famous, Museu de Arte de São Paulo (more commonly known as MASP), features contemporary and post WWII works by local Brazilian artists, as well as the largest collection in the southern hemisphere of European masterworks.

Pinacoteca do Estado JSPinacoteca do Estado (pictured)

Here you’ll discover modern and contemporary art, including works by Mira Schendel, Pedro Alexandrino, and Lasar Segal.

Galeria Vermelho

Here’s you’ll find contemporary art by numerous local Brazilian artists, including both established and emerging artists.

Choque Cultural 

See Sao Paulo’s underground art scene come to life. Changing exhibitions include pop and outsider art reminiscent of the city’s famed street art-style paintings and prints.

Even more time?

Remember Samba Saturday! Many of the city’s bars feature live Samba music on this most relaxing of days. Enjoy!

 

Header photo courtesy of http://spturis.com. Avenida Paulista photo courtesy of Vi Neves. Liberdade photo courtesy of Tony Gálvez. Pão de queijo photo courtesy of Rodrigo Gianesi. Pinacoteca do Estado photo courtesy of Fernando Kokubun.

 
 

 

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